Hi everyone!
I didn't fall off the Himalayas (not really, though there was paragliding) and am alive. It's been forever since I've blogged. After being on the road traveling the Himalayas and then heading almost directly from there to Zahirabad for a field visit, I haven't had much time to blog, but everything's been amazing.
My Himalayan adventure began with a flight into Delhi with three others in our group: Kyle, Leah, and Amy. From there, we were to take a train to Pathankot and then a hired car to Dharamsala. However, it turned out that there are 5 or 6 rail stations in Delhi, and we had no idea which one we had to get to! Fortunately our cab driver Harry was able to help us and after a stressful hour we made it just in time. As always, the overnight train was wonderful.
After that, we were picked up from the train station by Vinod, who was to become our driver/tour guide for the week. He was amazing, very kind and willing to show us around the area he's from. We reached our hotel, the Snowcrest Inn in the Naddi area of Dharamsala, and took a nap before wandering around the area and having a lovely dinner at our hotel. At this point, there was heavy fog covering the mountains so that we couldn't see them.
On Sunday I awoke at dawn and stepped onto the balcony to discover a gorgeous view of the mountains. Green hills and behind them gray stone mountains extending into the sky. Later, we visited the Dalai Lama's monastery in the nearby town of McLeodganj - it was much simpler than I'd expected, and there were monks in saffron and maroon robes all around. Outside there was a memorial to all the Tibetans who've died in the struggle with China - I've never confronted the pain of a displaced population as much as I did this trip, and it was very sad. We also traveled to two more monasteries, all decked out in bright reds, blues, yellows, and greens.
Our next stop was Kangra Fort, which was one of the favorite places I visited. It dates to before 1000 CE, is set on a hill in Kangra Valley, and is in semi-ruins - which added to the beauty. We walked under a series of three arched gates, and up into the main courtyard. From there we were able to explore ramparts and balconies, climbing all over. At the top, looking over the valley, it felt like a fairytale.
That evening we went into McLeodganj and shopped, largely buying handicrafts made by Tibetan people, although it was at times hard to tell what was authentic and what was a marketing ploy. We ate momos (delicious Tibetan dumplings) at a restaurant near the hotel.
Over the next three days, Amy and I took a meditation course with a wonderful man called Amit. We learned some new breathing techniques and on one of the days we did a walking meditation around the back of the Dalai Lama's monastery - there are hundreds of colorful prayer flags and Tibetan prayer wheels lining the pathway, and we stopped to meditate on a hill under prayer flag strands. In the most Indian way, we were chased out of it eventually by two grazing cows.
After the last day's session, we drove out to the ancient Masroor stone-cut temple, which was majestic and beautiful and filled with stone carvings. And we went to Tatwani hotsprings, housed in a small old temple, where I dipped my toes in. A small boy stripped off and went in, and I'll admit I was a bit envious.
We also drove to the landing site for paragliders, where we found a pilot who would take us up in a few days.
The day we were supposed to paraglide was cloudy, and there was snow near Triund peak where we could have hiked. However, the snow in the mountains looked AMAZING from our balcony. We went to a Tibetan museum and library to wait and see whether the weather would improve, and eventually we did. Driving down there we were still unsure whether it would stay nice, but it did.
The pilots took us up a hill-mountain in a pickup truck, and on the journey up I dealt with my rising fear by cracking dark jokes. The others noted that with my klutziness, it was likely I wouldn't glide off the hill. I'd trip and fall down it. Laughter helps greatest to dispel fear, I've found. At the top, we met our tandem pilots more officially, and were harnessed into our equipment. After two walking steps down the hill, pulling the pilot and the parachute along behind, the chute caught the wind and we were airborne.
What followed was the best half hour of my life. I was nervous because I hate the sensation of falling, but there was none of that. I soared, the parachute and pilot catching air currents the way hawks do. It was a very gentle and yet ehilarating ride, looking down over the lovely Kangra Valley and seeing the mountains behind. Near the end my pilot asked if I wanted to do any stunts, and I said yes. We banked left, then right, then turned in a slow circle. It was amazing. On landing, I almost came down too hard on my ankle but caught myself.
The next day was our hike to Triund. We had chosen to cut off 2km of the trek by being driven right to the trailhead, which was a decision I am immensely thankful for. The trail was steep, with boulders all over. There were a few dhabas (small snack shops) along the way, but we didn't stop for long because we knew we had to get back down before dark. Hiking the 7km up was one of the hardest things I have ever done, and I was sure my lungs and muscles were about to give out countless times. But, somehow, with the support of the amazing Leah, I made it.
The summit was GORGEOUS. The valley below, the mountain peaks right there with no hills blocking the view. Hawks soaring. It all felt right out of Lord of the Rings :) We all sat on boulders in the sunshine, feeling content and in awe. I ate a sleeve of chocolate cookies I had packed that morning, journaled, and enjoyed.
After two hours, we decided to head back down in order to be sure of arriving at the bottom by nightfall. The way down was just as stressful - although my lungs were no longer burning, I kept losing my footing. I fell twice on the path, but luckily some Indian mountain guides who were passing helped me down the toughest part, and for the rest I had our wonderful group. We were followed by a flock of goats and a few dogs - at one point two dogs took hold of a small goat and killed it (thankfully out of my sight, off the path). And, no matter how terrifying the steep downward climb was, we still had gorgeous views.
Several times during the hike we interacted with international hikers - Dharamsala is a tourist town, but the tourists tend to be backpackers and nature lovers, and there was a good sense of camaraderie.
The last morning, I awoke early to journal. We packed and then drove with Vinod (he was absolutely wonderful to us) back to Pathankot, where we reversed the journey to Bangalore.
My first time seeing the Himalaya mountains (heck, any mountains!), was a truly beautiful experience and one of the best weeks of my life.
Peace and love,
Malyn
I didn't fall off the Himalayas (not really, though there was paragliding) and am alive. It's been forever since I've blogged. After being on the road traveling the Himalayas and then heading almost directly from there to Zahirabad for a field visit, I haven't had much time to blog, but everything's been amazing.
My Himalayan adventure began with a flight into Delhi with three others in our group: Kyle, Leah, and Amy. From there, we were to take a train to Pathankot and then a hired car to Dharamsala. However, it turned out that there are 5 or 6 rail stations in Delhi, and we had no idea which one we had to get to! Fortunately our cab driver Harry was able to help us and after a stressful hour we made it just in time. As always, the overnight train was wonderful.
After that, we were picked up from the train station by Vinod, who was to become our driver/tour guide for the week. He was amazing, very kind and willing to show us around the area he's from. We reached our hotel, the Snowcrest Inn in the Naddi area of Dharamsala, and took a nap before wandering around the area and having a lovely dinner at our hotel. At this point, there was heavy fog covering the mountains so that we couldn't see them.
On Sunday I awoke at dawn and stepped onto the balcony to discover a gorgeous view of the mountains. Green hills and behind them gray stone mountains extending into the sky. Later, we visited the Dalai Lama's monastery in the nearby town of McLeodganj - it was much simpler than I'd expected, and there were monks in saffron and maroon robes all around. Outside there was a memorial to all the Tibetans who've died in the struggle with China - I've never confronted the pain of a displaced population as much as I did this trip, and it was very sad. We also traveled to two more monasteries, all decked out in bright reds, blues, yellows, and greens.
Our next stop was Kangra Fort, which was one of the favorite places I visited. It dates to before 1000 CE, is set on a hill in Kangra Valley, and is in semi-ruins - which added to the beauty. We walked under a series of three arched gates, and up into the main courtyard. From there we were able to explore ramparts and balconies, climbing all over. At the top, looking over the valley, it felt like a fairytale.
That evening we went into McLeodganj and shopped, largely buying handicrafts made by Tibetan people, although it was at times hard to tell what was authentic and what was a marketing ploy. We ate momos (delicious Tibetan dumplings) at a restaurant near the hotel.
Over the next three days, Amy and I took a meditation course with a wonderful man called Amit. We learned some new breathing techniques and on one of the days we did a walking meditation around the back of the Dalai Lama's monastery - there are hundreds of colorful prayer flags and Tibetan prayer wheels lining the pathway, and we stopped to meditate on a hill under prayer flag strands. In the most Indian way, we were chased out of it eventually by two grazing cows.
After the last day's session, we drove out to the ancient Masroor stone-cut temple, which was majestic and beautiful and filled with stone carvings. And we went to Tatwani hotsprings, housed in a small old temple, where I dipped my toes in. A small boy stripped off and went in, and I'll admit I was a bit envious.
We also drove to the landing site for paragliders, where we found a pilot who would take us up in a few days.
The day we were supposed to paraglide was cloudy, and there was snow near Triund peak where we could have hiked. However, the snow in the mountains looked AMAZING from our balcony. We went to a Tibetan museum and library to wait and see whether the weather would improve, and eventually we did. Driving down there we were still unsure whether it would stay nice, but it did.
The pilots took us up a hill-mountain in a pickup truck, and on the journey up I dealt with my rising fear by cracking dark jokes. The others noted that with my klutziness, it was likely I wouldn't glide off the hill. I'd trip and fall down it. Laughter helps greatest to dispel fear, I've found. At the top, we met our tandem pilots more officially, and were harnessed into our equipment. After two walking steps down the hill, pulling the pilot and the parachute along behind, the chute caught the wind and we were airborne.
What followed was the best half hour of my life. I was nervous because I hate the sensation of falling, but there was none of that. I soared, the parachute and pilot catching air currents the way hawks do. It was a very gentle and yet ehilarating ride, looking down over the lovely Kangra Valley and seeing the mountains behind. Near the end my pilot asked if I wanted to do any stunts, and I said yes. We banked left, then right, then turned in a slow circle. It was amazing. On landing, I almost came down too hard on my ankle but caught myself.
The next day was our hike to Triund. We had chosen to cut off 2km of the trek by being driven right to the trailhead, which was a decision I am immensely thankful for. The trail was steep, with boulders all over. There were a few dhabas (small snack shops) along the way, but we didn't stop for long because we knew we had to get back down before dark. Hiking the 7km up was one of the hardest things I have ever done, and I was sure my lungs and muscles were about to give out countless times. But, somehow, with the support of the amazing Leah, I made it.
The summit was GORGEOUS. The valley below, the mountain peaks right there with no hills blocking the view. Hawks soaring. It all felt right out of Lord of the Rings :) We all sat on boulders in the sunshine, feeling content and in awe. I ate a sleeve of chocolate cookies I had packed that morning, journaled, and enjoyed.
After two hours, we decided to head back down in order to be sure of arriving at the bottom by nightfall. The way down was just as stressful - although my lungs were no longer burning, I kept losing my footing. I fell twice on the path, but luckily some Indian mountain guides who were passing helped me down the toughest part, and for the rest I had our wonderful group. We were followed by a flock of goats and a few dogs - at one point two dogs took hold of a small goat and killed it (thankfully out of my sight, off the path). And, no matter how terrifying the steep downward climb was, we still had gorgeous views.
Several times during the hike we interacted with international hikers - Dharamsala is a tourist town, but the tourists tend to be backpackers and nature lovers, and there was a good sense of camaraderie.
The last morning, I awoke early to journal. We packed and then drove with Vinod (he was absolutely wonderful to us) back to Pathankot, where we reversed the journey to Bangalore.
My first time seeing the Himalaya mountains (heck, any mountains!), was a truly beautiful experience and one of the best weeks of my life.
Peace and love,
Malyn
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